Dubai Sevens, Rugby Heaven

The Dubai Sevens Rugby tournament has a long tradition here, celebrating its fortieth anniversary this year. That makes it even older than the country, which just celebrated its formation 38 years ago. The many expatriates who probably skipped the low-key parades on National Day last week turned out in droves to watch three full days of nonstop rugby and related entertainment in the middle of the desert. Teams traveled to Dubai from all over the world, including elite national sides from the top rugby nations, select international clubs and social clubs for both men and women.

Rugby sevens is played on a full size pitch (field) with seven players per team instead of the normal 15, with games lasting only 7 minutes per half (ten minutes per half for finals). That makes for a lot of fast-paced action in a sevens tournament, which can be completed with pool play the first day and the finals the second day. Sevens is the version of the sport that will be played in the 2016 Olympic games to be held in Rio de Janeiro. The global spread and popularity of the game is in full view in Dubai with teams from the Arabian Gulf, Argentina, Australia, England, France, Fiji, Kenya, New Zealand, Portugal, Russia, Samoa, Scotland, South Africa, United States, Wales, and Zimbabwe.

The stadium is a massive semipermanent structure rising out of the flat expanse of the desert on the outskirts of Dubai. The area is transformed into a mostly Arab-free expatriate village where the normal rules of living in Dubai are temporarily suspended, with alcoholic drinks dispensed freely without the need for any license for purchase. Heineken 12-packs come with their own soft cooler full of ice, and those preferring to party can watch the games on TV in the large tents on the grounds. Snacks appealing to the various nationalities include UK-style fish and chips, South African style sausage and burgers, and the most popular Baskin Robbins flavors. Kiddies are welcome with an alcohol-free Family Stand and all kinds of play areas and mini rugby balls flying everywhere. The stands can hold as many as 50,000 fans, and probably three times that many pass through the grounds over the three days of the event.

Many spectators come decked out in creative costumes for a very festive atmosphere. Seen at the Sevens were a team of Bananamen, who seemed quite happy not to be playing rugby, a team of Whoopee Cushions, several lost sheep, a transvestite cheerleading squad, a wayward Celtics basketball team, six Waldos, Princess Leia, Darth Vader and a pack of Storm Troopers, a bunch of drunk clowns (some in costume), Austin Powers, who "performed" and made several wardrobe changes, a team of professional cheerleaders from Australia, and tournament mascots in the form of a cute, cartoonish camel and a rugby ball. Streakers included a man in his underwear, a man who looked like he was in his underwear but who was wearing a giant Sumo wrestler costume, and a parrot, who were duly tackled and taken away by the security personnel.

I was amazed that the crowd was so well-behaved given the party atmosphere and drinking. While rugby players in the USA have a reputation for being a bit too wild and crazy, the international ruggers and their fans are very polite and restrained. Of course, there were plenty of security people present, but I saw no unpleasantness at all. Those who were drinking seemed to show good sense by not driving.

By the way, New Zealand beat Samoa in the international cup final. The USA men's team only managed one win against Portugal, but came close to beating Kenya and should have beaten Russia. The USA women's team had a good showing with wins against Moscow, Bangkok and Kenya. Surely rugby's going to the Olympics will inspire a new group of young athletes to get serious about the sport. If the USA national men's team can attract just a handful of the top athletes who can't find a place in the NFL, that could make all the difference for the sevens program.