Our apartment building on Jumeirah Beach

Monday, July 22, 2013

Ramadan Kareem?

Somehow I managed to avoid being in Dubai during Ramadan, until now. I find myself here for a good part of the holy month, which started on July 10. Muslims must fast from dawn until dusk, and most places serving food and drink are not open for service during that time period. The coffeehouses I usually frequent when I'm out doing errands are, sadly, closed. At dusk, around 7:10 p.m., the fast is broken with the "iftar" meal, and restaurants and coffee shops are open for business. Many restaurants offer a special iftar buffet with traditional foods and sweets.  Muslims take another meal before dawn called the "suhoor", which may be eaten later in the evening or very early before dawn.

Non-Muslims, including tourists and the many expats who live in Dubai, are required to respect Ramadan customs by not eating or drinking anything in public during the daytime. Hotel restaurants can remain open during the day for tourists provided they are well-hidden and not observable from the outside. A few places also offer takeout during the day for those not required to fast. The supermarkets remain open, and, of course, it is perfectly okay to eat and drink where you cannot be seen in public.

The UAE dress code--which calls for modest clothing in public places like the shopping malls--seems to be more in force now. Women should wear clothes covering their shoulders and knees, while shorts and sleeveless shirts are frowned on for men. While rarely enforced, it's worth observing if only to avoid embarrassment.

McDonald's and KFC offer special value meals for Ramadan, including the sparkling fruit juice called Vimto that is popular here during this season. There's festive signage--"Ramadan in Dubai brings us closer"-- and Ramadan special sales.




Tourist attractions are also open. My two sons and I visited Aquaventure, the waterpark at the Atlantis resort, and it was nice not to have to fight any crowds. The tickets were not on sale, unfortunately, and it felt a bit weird to be in a Ramadan-free zone, even temporarily.

The combination of Ramadan and the summer's heat makes for a very slow time in the city, with the exception of that brief period between the end of the work day and the beginning of the iftar dinners. All the fasting Muslims speeding to dinner makes for a very dangerous time on the roads. Finding a taxi can be difficult as many of the cabbies are Muslim and go off work to break the fast. Entertainments are also in short supply, although movie theatres are open.

Ramadan Kareem means Blessed Ramadan, but I dare say that is not the term that comes to mind for those us stuck here for work or family. I did not expect it to be a problem for me, but I have to admit that I'm tired of it already. I can't believe it lasts a whole month. How do businesses survive this dry period? I've seen many employees of restaurants and shops just standing around, twiddling their thumbs. Definitely not a good time to visit! It moves up ten days every year, based on the lunar calendar, so make sure to check before you come.

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